Special times in Sweden

David and Tessa

David had always had Sweden on his wish list but for me it was driven mainly by being able to catchup with one of my greatest friends Tessa, who was over from NZ.  Sometimes thats all it takes to lead you down another path, and who knows whats to be found.

Traditional colour of summer houses

The Stockholm Archipelago is a magical spot, not unlike the Marlborough sounds.  There are over 30,000 islands, varying in size and over 50,000 holiday cottages owned mainly by people from Stockholm.  Lovely during summer but not so accessible during winter as the ice conditions can pose a bit of a challenge. 

Literally on the water

One of the glorious things about the Baltic Sea is the lack of tidal movement. You are not restrained as to how close to the waters edge you can build.  We saw some places that you literally step out the door onto a terrace and then straight into the water!!!  The water was a bit chilly, more stimulating than relaxing, but again a plus of the Baltic is the lack of salt.  Most seawater is usually about 35% but here its as low as 6 - 8% which meant none of that sticky saltiness after you've swum, no need to go looking for a shower to rinse off.

Pure bliss

More than 3/4 of the islands are privately owned but during the summer many people are out enjoying the Archipelago and taking advantage of 'Allemansratt' (every man's right).  A Swedish law which gives everyone the right of public access to private land for recreational purposes.  You are even permitted to pitch a tent for one night provided you are not within view of a house.  So if you are kayaking or sailing around the islands and you want to draw up on a beach for a spot of wild camping you don't have to worry about whether its owned by anyone.

Vaxholm

We stayed with Annika and Michael, great friends of Tessa's, who have a Summer house out in the Archipelago. The island is Ekholmen and is a magical spot - the house on high land and two cottages built almost right on the water.  From our room we stepped out onto the jetty at water level. By the end of the week the early morning bathes were almost enjoyable - you were certainly wide awake. 

Home for five days

A slice of paradise

View from our front door

This spot is a mecca for water sports and this family have many tales of sailing expeditions all around the world. Harry and Matisse were out sailing most days and water skiing or biscuiting, we swam and had a couple of great sessions out in the kayaks.

Michael getting Harry on the water

Matisse and Harry out for a ski

Michael and Annika

Look like they know what they're doing?

Matisse and Harry

Matisse rectifying the situation 

Went island hoping to find some good walking/running tracks, had a wonderful afternoon sailing further out in the Archipelago admiring some of the wonderful places , visited Vaxholm a very popular tourist spot and were introduced to the fabulous Swedish custom of 'Fika'. 

Fika in Vaxholm

 An eye watering selection of delicious sweet cakes, slices, pastries and biscuits accompanied by either tea or coffee. 







 And too our delight Annika announced every morning and afternoon, just as we were feeling peckish, 'now we have Fika' with some of her delicious baking.  So the habit must remain- none of this morning or afternoon business.

'Now we have Fika!!'

Tessa picking berries

Tessa and I picked wild blueberries and strawberries - small, about the size of a small redcurrant,  but tasty. Were treated to some delicious Swedish fare, pickled and salted herring, different caviars, knacke breads, cheeses, Moose casserole and all sorts of other yummy things. Sang some traditional songs as we drank local Schnapps, Annika's grandmothers secret recipe, and beer!!  

Beware of the Scandinavian waters

Then most days late afternoon, just before dinner, we joined Annika in the sauna and followed with a quick dip in the cool waters.  Luckily everything still intact, perhaps fortunate, as on our return to the UK a friend delighted in producing this article from the Telegraph!!

Wonderful dinners down on the jetty

Sven and Dave setting the world right

The girls, Cia, Annika and Tessa

10pm and dinner progressed to enjoy another special spot 

Dinning outside almost on the water was very special, as we enjoyed the company of new, and old friends in what felt like a little slice of paradise.  Sven and Cia, another delightful couple from Stockholm, kayaked across from the mainland and were here for the weekend.  The lovely long evenings seemed to go on forever as we watched the stunning sunsets at about 11 o'clock. 

Gorgeous sunsets

Early morning when the sea was sometimes like a millpond, we'd watch these big ferries and cruise ships slide by, heading up to places like Helsinki, Tallinn or Riga.

Dave on watch 

 We've been thoroughly spoilt by Tessa's friends, loved learning a little about the Swedish culture, not to mention trying all the wonderful foods, and fallen in love with this part of Europe.  

Northumberland Coastline

Time to see a couple of different areas of the north of England.  We've made the trip to Scotland numerous times but only via the main motorways and never really deviated.

Bamburgh Castle

The Northumberland Coastline, that friends described as a well kept secret, is wild, unspoilt and quite dramatic in places. 

One of our first stops was Holy Island with the Lindisfarne Priory, sadly crossing times didn't allow us to get there.

View of castle from the Bamburgh

Out of the quiet little village of Bamburgh this amazing castle appears.  It stands in all its glory right on the coastline, coming out of the rocks as if guarding the territory, which of course it probably was.  The wide sandy beach beneath it stretches for miles - a magical site.  Perhaps not the kind of beach you'd find a lot of bikini clad sunbathers, but just the type of beach you feel like walking the dog, running, playing french cricket and building sandcastles on.  Even miles of sand hills are crisscrossed with great walking tracks. 

 As you head further south to Craster, Seahouses and the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle you can imagine the bloody battles that have taken place along this rugged coastline. 

River Wear - Durham

Another less talked about city in the north of England is Durham just south of New Castle. It sits on the River Wear, which meanders through the city in such a way to form a peninsula.  From the bridges you can admire this wonderful fast flowing river with steep riverbanks which are densely wooded.  

Cathedral

The old Norman Cathedral dominates the skyline and is quite spectacular and nearby is 11th century Castle which has been home to the College Uni since 1832 .

 Durham Cathedral peeking over the trees

The town was a lovely find with its cobbled streets, stylish boutiques and quirky craft shops all mingled alongside the big name brand stores. A busy market place today that was bustling with people, lively sounds, some great looking food, and delicious smells. 

 

Food market Durham

  

The University of Durham claims to be England's third oldest after Oxford and Cambridge, although I gather this is debatable. But the city certainly has that lovely University town  buzz to it.  The grounds up near the Cathedral are littered with students and tourists wanting to enjoy a bit of grass on this spectacular day.  They scatter themselves around and give the environment that lovely feeling of a 'lived in' home.  Couldn't help but join them for while and enjoy this spot.

How to enjoy a sunny day in Durham

The third of our northern stops was to sneak a quick look into the lake District.  Sadly we didn't time this very well, the clear blue skies had arrived,the mercury had risen and the people were out 'on mass'.  We stopped in Keswick, a rather gorgeous little market town, replenished the food stores and headed up Derwentwater in search of some good walks and fewer people.  We didn't have to go far - found the village of Rosthwaite, our bed for the night, but no one home at the inn.  So headed on to Seatoller after getting some advice from a local.  From there were loaded the suntan lotion, boots and backpacks on and set off.  A rather pushy National Trust rep got a bit snarky as we didn't want to join and then was to be heard laughing about us heading off with no map!  Oh well nothing like an adventure, we are Kiwi's remember, and we're not that adverse to listening to directions and following a few criptic marker points.

Seatoller

We wandered through a farmyard, along the river and then up into these glorious hills.  Unbelievable  countryside (pics don't do it justice at all) - stunning views and the few people we did come across were very willing to help - funnily enough!!  The Lake district National Park has over 15 million visitors annually so its no surprise to find it bursting at the seams in the towns.  But there are miles and miles of fabulous tracks and areas that cater for everybody, from those who just want to stroll around the Lakes right through to the more serious climbers.

Wettest part of the England

Stayed the night in a classic Airbnb - Neil the owner was a bit distracted with car and children challenges so his ex wife hoped over the fence, wandered on in to the unlocked house and said 'Help yourselves'!! So we did just that - showered, cups of tea etc . And when he did turn up later we were entertained by his stories.  You got to love the attitude and the trust that goes with it.  Fun night! 

Warm Summer Days in Britian

Nick and Dev - shorts are on, coffee poured.

A busy July - Summer has arrived in the UK, moods have lifted and we are all making the most of it.

Minterne Gardens

Wow - they really do things properly when they do it - rains comes down in torrents and roads are flooded, snow arrives in April just when you think Spring is on its way and then the mercury rises in July and stays there and we have heat wave warnings!! Oh for Change, it is fabulous, no chance of complacency as we enjoy the extremes!

 This month has seen us revel in the company of wonderful family, old friends from NZ and even old neighbours from NZ, drive hundreds of miles and visit some spectacular places right here in the UK.

Tony & Anne

Axbridge

We found a delightful cottage in Axbridge, Somerset through Airbnb and Anne (Dave's sister) and partner Tony joined us for four days. A former Market town, half the size it used to be thanks to a bye pass road, with a medieval market square, narrow streets, old buildings and plenty of character and charm - even a little Museum run by the locals, full of local area history.

Dave, Tony & Anne

Cheddar Gorge

We were a couple of miles from the Cheddar Gorge and Caves, a vibrant little tourist spot. This is one of England's most iconic and spectacular landscapes, with dramatic limestone cliffs rising almost 500feet, elaborate cave systems, some almost cathedral sized,  and surrounded by 360 acres of Nature Reserve.  And of course home to good old Cheddar Cheese, now made all around the world but the local traditionally made cheeses are often left to mature in the caves giving it a unique flavour. 

Wells 

Glastonbury was only a stones throw away and the festival was almost in full swing by the time we left. Would have fun to have joined the throngs of people there, especially with a dry weekend predicted and the Rolling Stones due to be the major attraction. Their first time ever playing at Glastonbury - most in their sixties but performing like they're crazy rockers. Just sad we couldn't even hear anything.

Postman's legs and spare body parts

Nick and Anne

We spent a fabulous day in Wells, England's smallest city, with only a population of 12,000.  But it can call itself a city because of the famous 13th century cathedral.  It was Market day, the town square was a hive of activity with a mixture of great stalls, some producing some delicious local produce, both edible and otherwise,  other yummy organic bits but not so local.  With some wonderful music in the background,  we sat, enjoyed good coffee and felt free to sample some of our homemade baking we'd bought earlier from some of the stalls.  A great way to keep us around a bit longer and encourage us to buy more. 

Wells Cathedral

Then spent the afternoon wandering through the famous Cathedral, one of the most impressive we've seen.  Built in 12th century it was the first English Cathedral designed in the new Gothic architectural style. The front of the cathedral has some amazing carvings while inside the views are breath taking, especially the unique 'scissor arch'.

Bishops Palace

The Bishops moated Palace and 14 acres of garden are home to the natural springs or wells, from which the city takes its name.    Once through the gatehouse, over the moat and through the drawbridge you feel as if you are in a castle but instead a wonderful tranquil residence. There have been bishops living in this splendid palace for over 800 years.  While there we watched some rather eccentric Englishmen, smartly dressed in their whites, enjoy a game croquet while we indulged a good old cup of tea. 

Croquet

They knew how to party

Pilgrim

Stunning garden art

From Axbridge to Sherborne where we spent a wonderful weekend with cousins Annie and Christopher and old friends from Marlborough Dinny and Alastair.   A great reunion of family and friends in the gorgeous Dorset countryside - wandering around the Minterne Gardens on a sunny Sunday morning.

Minterne gardens

It must be important

David, Christopher, Annie, Dinny and Alastair

Then over to admire the much talked about York Cathedral and another delightful little town Wetherby,  where we introduced Del, a dear friend and old neighbour from Marlborough days, to a rather fun Airbnb. Do have to admit we saw more of Weatherby than York - too many people, good weather in the UK seems to triple the amount of tourists, so we'll come back at another time.

Del, David & Nick