Glorious Granada

David, Janet and Francis

We were staying only two and a half hours away from this gorgeous city, a truly special spot.  Made all the more fun, to be shown the ropes, or perhaps more correctly the bars,  by Francis and Janet, some wonderful locals.

From Lubrin we had a stunning drive along the old main road, now surpassed by the main coastal highway, through a real variety of desert-like countryside. First was the location of the 'spagetti western' films, and where Clint Eastwood came to fame.  Past the magical cave houses, huge big modern wind turbines, solar panel farms, acres of orange and almond orchards, olive groves and even a small amount of cropping land. Some delightful old rural towns, still that lovely spanish white, usually snuggled closely together on the side of a hill and finally on the last saddle we even encounted a fine layer of newly fallen snow. 

Sierra Nevada's - from Grenada 

Granada is nestled in a basin at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, which were covered in snow and the crisp morning air confirmed they weren't far away.   The Ski Resort is only 32kms from the city, has over 2,5000 hectares of skiable area and is the southern most in Europe, so the  best place to go for sun and snow late in the season.

Its a bit of a tricky city to drive in - lots of one way streets, motor bikes and students on push bikes, always a law unto themselves. The prestigious University of Granada is based here, and caters for about 80,000 students spread over five different campuses. They certainly contribute to the buzz and action within the city both on the road, and the night life.

The city offers a great variety of climate and landscape, is rich in history and culture, but its real wealth is in the stunning Spanish - Muslim art.  Once again I loved the different architecture. Most of the buildings are typically bourgeois in appearance with numerous Renaissance and Baroque buildings and some grand 19th century boulevards.

As the day warmed up people seemed to spill out into the street.   First stop for us was a must have coffee, out in the plaza,  amongst the noisy locals. Their coffee's are often accompanied by a brandy and I'm sure thats what helps raise the noise level.  There's something special about just being in this environment, in the sunshine, enjoying the buzz of the city.

The shoe shiners are touting for work and would do it for a few euros while you enjoy your coffee and women are selling their twigs of rosemary and other herbs.  Children are also filling up the plaza and that adds to the wonderful atmosphere.

Cathedral

Spectacular white marble 

View of Cathedral from the Alhambra

In the centre of the city is the spectacular Cathredral, the second largest cathedral in Spain,   built in the early 16th century, at a time when the Christians were forcing the existing Jews and Muslims to convert.  They were making significant changes to the appearance of the city in an attempt to hide its Muslim character so this was built over the Great Mosque.

Fountain of Lions

Unique example of Muslim art

Lions Palace - 124 columns surround the courtyard

Court of Lions

The Alhambra dominates the whole city and is one of the most visited sites in Spain - they like to credit it as being one of the great architectural sights of Europe.  It didn't disappoint and we were only saddened that we hadn't allowed more time to enjoy the place.  Even at this time of the year its essential to book ahead to make sure you get a ticket at the time you  want.

The Alhambra is an entire walled city within Granada. It is, of course a World heritage site, and is best described as part palace, part fortress and part garden. Originally constructed as a fortress in 889 it was converted to a royal palace in 1332 and was the last Moorish stronghold of Europe. In the late 1400's it became a christians court and their influence was added to it.  But it was in 1870 that that the work of restoring, protecting and caring for the palaces really begun.

The Generalife, translated 'The Garden of Paradise" is the garden area attached to Alhambra.  This became a place of recreation and rest for the Muslim Kings when official life in the Palace got too much for them. It contains some wonderful water features as well.

Back down to the animated centre of the city, although it is siesta time so a little quieter than it was.  There we were introduced to the bars and the 'Tapas culture" for which Granada is also reknown. One of the last spots in Spain where tapas are served Free when you order a drink and with each successive drink you will receive an even more elaborate tapa.  There are a number of streets lined with tapas bars so the trick is to time it right and there's no need to buy a meal!!  Janet and Francis can vouch for this, nothing like first hand knowledge and some fun locals to introduce you to the night life!!!

As winter seems to come down heavily upon us, literally snow falling as far as the eye can see, its time to make a move to somewhere warmer. 

 Although winter in the UK is nowhere near as bad as many of us have been lead to believe.  Sure there may be a bit of surface water around, frosty mornings with ice to be wary of and even a good dumping of snow that brings a lot of the country to a standstill.  But the houses are still warm and cosy, at least in our neck of the woods that is.  

There's a certain satisfying feeling of coming back in from a freezing cold outing with horses or dogs to a warm country kitchen.  Even if I wasn't a keen cook I think I could be influenced and converted by my surroundings. 

I'm now picturing myself as a female version of Nigel Slater or even better Nigella's little sister!!  What can't I create here, as I gain inspiration from the many cookbooks on the wall and this wonderful big oven just waiting to be used.  And best of all a very eager accomplice ready to particpate in any taste testing he can get at.

So glass of wine in one hand and menu in another I begin! Never as easy as they make it sound let alone as much fun. No cool calm elegant looking cook in this kitchen just a hot sweaty flustered middle aged woman struggling to get her sauce to set!

Spain here we come, I can escape, at least until the memory erases those last experiences just like childbirth and I fantasise about my culinary skills again.  A quick flight to Almeria makes it all the more accessable this time.  The fresh snow falling on M25 means getting to Gatwick at 4am is probably the most demanding part of the journey.

Mojacar

Looks good but looks can be deceiving, really cold

A view of our winter camp

   First thing that really hits us is the clear blue sky as far as the eye can see.  There's a crispness in the air,  the sun is certainly shinning and the feeling is of a spring morning back home on the farm in NZ. Even as I hang the washing out the next morning I am marvelling at how it good it feels to be in this environment.  In fact just the act of hanging the washing out on an outside line and letting the sun and wind dry it naturally brings a smile.

The countryside looks spectacular with the almond trees in full blossom, pink and white, with that same lovely delicate blossom as the apple trees. There are orange, mandarin and lemon groves with trees laden in fruit, sometimes even lying on the ground.  The river beds are even lush and green with wonderful spring-like growth and many olive groves all around the hills. Then higher up you find herbs like rosemary, thyme, and lavender scattered across the harsher country which the goats spend their days foraging on.

Mid winter in Spain

Cheryl, great hostess

Two o'clock most afternoons you can hear the clanging of the goat bells as the goat herder brings his mob out to wander over the hills.  They milk in the morning and spend the afternoons grazing around this area - its a glorious site as they come round the side of the hill behind their trusty leader.  One goat herder and his faithful off-sider dog scooting around the mob every now and then to remind them who's boss on this mountain. Some rather cheeky little kids who are testing the boundaries and a tired old girl who says 'Have had enough for the day' and not going any further without some attention.

Mojacar with Francis and Janet, no not grumpy just bright sunlight

Chris and Nick looking for shops in Alicante

Down near the beach the pace isn't much faster at this time of the year, but the coast looks amazing.  Nobody much around to spoil the view of the stunning sea colour against the white of the houses. You can wander for hours, and the temperature conducive for doing so, with this glorious beach that just keeps going as far as the eye can see.  What better way to spend a Tuesday afternoon?

Great Lunch Mojacar beach with Francis and Janet

The life down here seems far simpler than anywhere we've been and perhaps this time of the year makes it feel more so.  Lovely long lunches with friends, cheap (better description might be great value for money) wine, delicious jamon, manechago cheeses, chorizo, fresh oranges picked straight from the tree and wonderful coffee. 

Getting a Master class in Spanish wines from  George.