Friday, February 8, 2013

Prague


Vltava River  - Prague


Winter in the UK has been busy, lots of fun jobs with some delightful animals kept us on our toes over both Christmas and New Year. December saw us up in Wisbech, then over to the Cotswolds near Ramsden.  From there we zipped down towards Streatley for the week and David found himself about forty-five minutes away in Wantage.  Luckily close enough that we could get together on Christmas day and enjoy a tiple .

Venus 
Blinky


 After a week of rain and mud we headed further south to  Romsey, just on the edge of the New Forest,  then back up towards London a little slice of heaven in East Horsley. I'm sure we would never have discovered some of these delightful spots had it not been for the house sitting requests, nor the pleasure of meeting some extraordinary nice people.  The animals are a real bonus.  







But a weeks gap in proceedings meant there was time to hop on the plane again and explore some untouched ground in Europe.  As you can imagine its a pretty quiet time for most hotels in Europe, even in your very popular destinations, so there were some great deals to be found. 



Prague is our city of choice, its been on the dream list for quite some time,  and we got the impression that it could look just as stunning in the middle of winter as the height of summer.  I know its the sixth most visited city in Europe or the world, but I'm sure most of them keep away while its temperature hovered somewhere between -8 and -15. 






The first impression was less than exciting, as it sometimes is on the first day especially when its grey and murky, but we rose the next day with a plan of action and the gorgeous "City of Spire's" to explore.  What a transformation, the city turned from a 1970's Communist state building site to one of the most beautiful cities in the world with just a dash of snow.
Not sure if our photography does it justice, but at least a peek at what we enjoyed.







Snow settling








Nothing moving far 












Top end of Wenceslas Square



We joined a Free Walking Tour (tips gladly received of course) which was a great success - these are an ideal way to get a good introduction to the city and from there do our own thing.  Do check these tours out online and if you can, get one with a local guide as they are always so much more passionate about their city. As we wandered we heard American and even Australian tour guides doing their thing, perhaps a good way to make money but imagine being shown around a city in the Czech Republic by a good Aussie bloke - just wouldn't quite be the same!!!  Klara was delightful, open and so enthusastic about her city and its history and of course won our hearts as she had been in Christchurch last year and spoke so fondly of our 'home'. 

David and Judy - touring buddies 




One of the other wonderful spin off's from these tours is the other people that you meet.  We joined a German couple, an English couple, a Russian girl from Siberia and a young Australian living and working in Vienna.  Their views and opinions on some of the things we came across were sometimes  more thought provoking that the historial site itself. 
Everything in Prague has a story and many of these revolved around throwing the other side out the windows, whether it be off the bridge,or over the edge of the castle wall. 


Nick and Judy creating own fun


 Sadly most the people, except for our delightful Hotel receptionist Jana and Klara were rather dour and seemed unexcited about most things, we had to work hard to get a smile. Perhaps it's something to do with the high rate of non believers, 80% of Czechs come under this category.



Franz Kafka
Franz Kafka - was a Jewish German  writer who was born in and studied in Prague -Regarded by many critics as one of the most influential authors of the 20th century.  





Astronomical clock 


Orloj, the medieval astronomical clock dates  back to 1410 .This masterpiece rests on the side wall of the town hall in the centre of the old town. The story goes that after the clockmaker had finished  the mechanical figures he was blinded so as to never be able to reproduce the same masterpiece.   But in retribution he scaled the tower and sacraficed his own life to stop the clock and it remained silent for over fifty years.


Wonderful architecture
Great colours
Muted colours

Prague is described by architects as a crazy quilt of architectural styles - I found it fascinating.  The coloured buildings often soft and muted, with large wide tree lined streets, even a little Venice of its own.  I'm told that it has an amazing resemblance to Paris and has been used when filming a number of European based films supposedly set in Paris!

Little Venice

View from Charles Bridge
Amazing detail






























The Charles Bridge would have to be one of the more romantic sites of Prague.  The famous 14th century stone bridge crosses the Vltava River -  initially built as the link between the Old Town and the Prague Castle.  Famous for its numerous Baroque statues it is usually  crowded with both tourists and a variety of artists and street vendors but with a cold snowy day we were lucky to have it quiet.


















Prague Castle - renown as The largest castle complex in the world with an area of almost 70,000 sq feet- it stands in all its glory over looking over the Vltava River to the Old Town. 


View from the castle
 St Vitus Cathedral stands inside the Castle grounds - the biggest and most important church in the country.  This spectacular piece of Gothic architecture is actually the third religious building to be erected on this site and contains the tombs of many of Bohemian kings.  The interior is a glorious site with spectacular stained glass windows that also tell a fascinating story!!  Check them out when you go there.

Guard at entrance to Castle 
St Vitus Cathedral






















Had to try the traditional Goulash soup and dumplings, wonderful on a cold day with  a beer or two. Also found the best hot chocolate ever at Paul's but that turned out to be a chain of French cafe's,  hardly a local Czech delicacy. 



 A wonderfully easy city to explore, trams, buses, metro and trains are very efficient and incrediably good value.  Hotels can look a bit tired from the outside but if anything like ours was super easy to find, close to good amenities and fabulous value for what we received.

Thursday, January 3, 2013

The Tour de France mountains in Snow





Nick in Zurich
Mid December we arrived in Zurich, just like Geneva last year it was snowing and looked amazing, but this time it continued to snow.  Nothing seems to slow down, the city just keeps on humming, they're so well equipped and used to it.    Time to rug up well and do the same.

Christmas Market in Zurich station

The main Railway station was a buzz with action and the first thing you see is the famous Swarovski Christmas Tree, over 50 feet tall glittering with more than 5000 crystal ornaments.  Below it is the largest Christmas market in the country - all indoors but that doesn't mean its warm and cosy!!  Its an extravaganza, with lots of emphasis on local crafts but plenty of food and drink to sample, to keep warm 'gluhwein' is the best.




Zurich at night

From there you can wander down Bahnofstrasse, the street known for its wonderful shopping,  and admire the luxuries.  Or just enjoy all the decorations, and Christmas finery that they do so well.

We met up with Michael, who was over from New Zealand for a wood conference and enjoyed a quiet night on the town.




The three of us headed south to Grenoble in France , to get together with the rest of the family.  What should have been a four hour drive took us over nine hours!!  A large chunk of that was sitting on the side of a French motorway trying to get some help with our Rental car that died on us. After a few challenges even finding somebody to talk to us on a Saturday morning, we were informed that they couldn't rescue us, its illegal for them to do so off a private French Motorway.  So with fingers, toes and all else crossed we somehow got the car moving and crept through tunnels on the busy motorway, idled along the snow covered streets of Geneva and freewheeled safely into the airport car park.
Provided with a nice new car we arrived in Grenoble for a mid afternoon lunch with Christopher and Sylvie.


Three  brothers bonding, Christopher,  David & Michael
Chris giving a lesson on the origin of the French
Revolution
Tour leader
Gardens at Vizille

How many ? does it take to use a money machine

What a fun reunion for the three Cambridge boys - a delight to see and listen to them telling stories after almost fifteeen years of all being together.  


Grenoble - known as capital of the French Alps - has a surrounding population of about 500,000 and is nestled amongst three chains of mountains.  Well known for its access to some of the best ski resorts, hosting the winter Olympics in 1968 and also a significant scientific centre of Europe.

Grenoble from Chris and Sylvie's appt.

We headed for the Alpe d'Huez ski resort only 11/2 hours away. It was a spectacular day to see it especially as we drove the mountain pass, which is a well known 13.8 metre climb with 21 hairpin bends on the Tour de France,  in heavy fog and then emerged into clear blue skies. 

Ski field at Alpe d'Huez

  They'd had over a metre of snow in the previous two days so the locals were delighted and even more so as it was too early in the season for many tourists. They had it to themselves and the runs were nearly empty - oh if only we'd planned better, with skiis on it could have been the perfect day!!


Early snow
Christopher and Nick



Start of the Chairlift and they screamed






After some fabulous hospitality from Christopher and Sylvie and a wonderful family get together we were back in Switzerland again checking out some new solid wood panel manufacturing plants with Michael. These use of timber in the rebuild of Christchurch is high on Michaels agenda and it was fascinating to learn more about the way the Europeans plan and use timber for the longterm.







Winterthur


Winterthur was the next stop, not your classic Swiss tourist hotspot.  Once an important industrial city its now known for its many green spaces and its well planned cycle tracks, a network of over 175kms.  Christchurch could learn alot from what they have achieved here.     http://stadt.winterthur.ch/fileadmin/user_upload/Portal/pdf/Winterthur_E_web.pdf

David and Mick outside the Multigenerational
Apartment building

We managed to see this multigenerational housing complex built predominately from wood and environmentally neutral.  Eighty families jointly hold ownership of the whole building and as their needs change they can buy or sell extra space within the group.