Friday, April 12, 2013

"Snowed in" - in Wales

Two feet of snow and its still falling!
A well hidden Fiat

After all the glowing reports we are getting from NZ it seems rather ironical that the UK is having one of their wettest and coldest winters on record.   


Oh well we continually look for the upside of this predicament and David's classic is always "think how much better it is for your skin"!!  Thats getting a bit old now. 

We've just spent a few days over in Herefordshire, although mighty chilly, as we're out striding around the fields with a gorgeous couple of dogs, Tilly and Anna.  The early morning light in the mist does look incredibly beautiful as long as hats, scarves and gloves are secured tightly.

Nick and Beau

David and Obe 

Next stop was just inside the M25 with a couple of rather large(70kg), delightful Dogue de Bordeauxs, Izzi and Beau.  Miles and miles of walking around Trent Park, which was either frozen solid or mud up to the ankles.  Fun being in the city for a change, although we did feel like we'd been a health camp by the time we left - three hours walking most days!!


Poppy & Obe
Becky waiting for action with that shovel

And it stayed and stayed

Off to find the nearest village shop



Then up north to the Shropshire Hills for a week of unbelievably heavy snow.  Had seven lovely dogs to keep us company as we stoked up the fire and hunkered down to keep warm.  The cottage was as snug as a bug, the dogs terribly well behaved, so we made the most of the long nights with hearty casseroles, delicious hot puds and a glass or two of red wine.


View from kitchen window


The big melt


Easter was celebrated in Nantwich, with lovely service at St Mary's church in the middle of the town.  Followed up with a vast selection of yummy chocolate and good cheer with friends! 

Minnie Pit memorial






 Then a great walk around the hills,  finishing at the site of one of the worst mining disasters in history - the 1918 Minnie Pit Disaster  where 155 miners died.




Chester was the next stop, we'd been before and did infact have my engagement ring made here ( twenty-eight years ago and still wearing it!), but this time saw it in a whole new light.

Chester
We wandered around the two miles of Roman Wall, admiring whats left of the castle and the wonderful old Roman bridges. Such a great way to get a feeling of what a fortified city was like.   The River Dee, which flows through the city,  had at one time been a prosperous port and centre for shipping trade.  But over the years changed its course, silted up and the Chester racecourse now covers that area.  It is infact the oldest racecourse still in use in England and can be admired as you stroll around the wall - pity we hadn't timed it better, could imagine a fun day at the races.

Dee River in Chester


Roman Bridge


A hint of Spring

The magnificent Cathedral remains almost intact with a history spanning almost 2,000 years.  While the unique double level walkways with shops at the street and first levels know as The Rows have been in existence since the 14th century.  And these give the city a distinctive look, and a rather special environment to do your retail therapy in.

Oxford

A day in Oxford was also a highlight, although this nasty cold weather takes the edge off it a bit.  And try as we may to not compare it with Cambridge, it was starting with a major handicap.



Sometimes referred to as "The City of Dreaming Spires",  Oxford has examples of nearly every English  architectural period.  Home to the oldest university in the country, and perhaps the English speaking world, this city is renown for its scholars and royalty that have resided here for over 800 years. 

Christ Church College


 The many historic buildings, colleges, museums, libraries and places of worship make strolling slowly around the city an absolute delight.  We even spotted a couple of deer lazing contentedly in the Meadow, which are parklike gardens  just outside the huge Christ Church College.


No bicycle goes unused

Now days it has become one of the most diverse smaller cities in the country with an economy fed by education, research, science based industries,high tech communities,  manufacturing and of course tourism.  Also a vast mixture of international students contribute to a thriving social culture in the city.


Hands on learning

After that education its the best mode of transport



Saturday, March 16, 2013

Glorious Granada


David, Janet and Francis
We were staying only two and a half hours away from this gorgeous city, a truly special spot.  Made all the more fun, to be shown the ropes, or perhaps more correctly the bars,  by Francis and Janet, some wonderful locals.


From Lubrin we had a stunning drive along the old main road, now surpassed by the main coastal highway, through a real variety of desert-like countryside. First was the location of the 'spagetti western' films, and where Clint Eastwood came to fame.  Past the magical cave houses, huge big modern wind turbines, solar panel farms, acres of orange and almond orchards, olive groves and even a small amount of cropping land. Some delightful old rural towns, still that lovely spanish white, usually snuggled closely together on the side of a hill and finally on the last saddle we even encounted a fine layer of newly fallen snow. 

Sierra Nevada's - from Grenada 

Granada is nestled in a basin at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, which were covered in snow and the crisp morning air confirmed they weren't far away.   The Ski Resort is only 32kms from the city, has over 2,5000 hectares of skiable area and is the southern most in Europe, so the  best place to go for sun and snow late in the season.




Its a bit of a tricky city to drive in - lots of one way streets, motor bikes and students on push bikes, always a law unto themselves. The prestigious University of Granada is based here, and caters for about 80,000 students spread over five different campuses. They certainly contribute to the buzz and action within the city both on the road, and the night life.

The city offers a great variety of climate and landscape, is rich in history and culture, but its real wealth is in the stunning Spanish - Muslim art.  Once again I loved the different architecture. Most of the buildings are typically bourgeois in appearance with numerous Renaissance and Baroque buildings and some grand 19th century boulevards.




As the day warmed up people seemed to spill out into the street.   First stop for us was a must have coffee, out in the plaza,  amongst the noisy locals. Their coffee's are often accompanied by a brandy and I'm sure thats what helps raise the noise level.  There's something special about just being in this environment, in the sunshine, enjoying the buzz of the city.

The shoe shiners are touting for work and would do it for a few euros while you enjoy your coffee and women are selling their twigs of rosemary and other herbs.  Children are also filling up the plaza and that adds to the wonderful atmosphere.

Cathedral


Spectacular white marble 



View of Cathedral from the Alhambra
In the centre of the city is the spectacular Cathredral, the second largest cathedral in Spain,   built in the early 16th century, at a time when the Christians were forcing the existing Jews and Muslims to convert.  They were making significant changes to the appearance of the city in an attempt to hide its Muslim character so this was built over the Great Mosque.

Fountain of Lions



Unique example of Muslim art
Lions Palace - 124 columns surround the courtyard

Court of Lions



The Alhambra dominates the whole city and is one of the most visited sites in Spain - they like to credit it as being one of the great architectural sights of Europe.  It didn't disappoint and we were only saddened that we hadn't allowed more time to enjoy the place.  Even at this time of the year its essential to book ahead to make sure you get a ticket at the time you  want.





The Alhambra is an entire walled city within Granada. It is, of course a World heritage site, and is best described as part palace, part fortress and part garden. Originally constructed as a fortress in 889 it was converted to a royal palace in 1332 and was the last Moorish stronghold of Europe. In the late 1400's it became a christians court and their influence was added to it.  But it was in 1870 that that the work of restoring, protecting and caring for the palaces really begun.









The Generalife, translated 'The Garden of Paradise" is the garden area attached to Alhambra.  This became a place of recreation and rest for the Muslim Kings when official life in the Palace got too much for them. It contains some wonderful water features as well.














Back down to the animated centre of the city, although it is siesta time so a little quieter than it was.  There we were introduced to the bars and the 'Tapas culture" for which Granada is also reknown. One of the last spots in Spain where tapas are served Free when you order a drink and with each successive drink you will receive an even more elaborate tapa.  There are a number of streets lined with tapas bars so the trick is to time it right and there's no need to buy a meal!!  Janet and Francis can vouch for this, nothing like first hand knowledge and some fun locals to introduce you to the night life!!!

Sunday, March 3, 2013


As winter seems to come down heavily upon us, literally snow falling as far as the eye can see, its time to make a move to somewhere warmer. 



 Although winter in the UK is nowhere near as bad as many of us have been lead to believe.  Sure there may be a bit of surface water around, frosty mornings with ice to be wary of and even a good dumping of snow that brings a lot of the country to a standstill.  But the houses are still warm and cosy, at least in our neck of the woods that is.  

There's a certain satisfying feeling of coming back in from a freezing cold outing with horses or dogs to a warm country kitchen.  Even if I wasn't a keen cook I think I could be influenced and converted by my surroundings. 
I'm now picturing myself as a female version of Nigel Slater or even better Nigella's little sister!!  What can't I create here, as I gain inspiration from the many cookbooks on the wall and this wonderful big oven just waiting to be used.  And best of all a very eager accomplice ready to particpate in any taste testing he can get at.
So glass of wine in one hand and menu in another I begin! Never as easy as they make it sound let alone as much fun. No cool calm elegant looking cook in this kitchen just a hot sweaty flustered middle aged woman struggling to get her sauce to set!


Spain here we come, I can escape, at least until the memory erases those last experiences just like childbirth and I fantasise about my culinary skills again.  A quick flight to Almeria makes it all the more accessable this time.  The fresh snow falling on M25 means getting to Gatwick at 4am is probably the most demanding part of the journey.
Mojacar

Looks good but looks can be deceiving, really cold

A view of our winter camp


   First thing that really hits us is the clear blue sky as far as the eye can see.  There's a crispness in the air,  the sun is certainly shinning and the feeling is of a spring morning back home on the farm in NZ. Even as I hang the washing out the next morning I am marvelling at how it good it feels to be in this environment.  In fact just the act of hanging the washing out on an outside line and letting the sun and wind dry it naturally brings a smile.

The countryside looks spectacular with the almond trees in full blossom, pink and white, with that same lovely delicate blossom as the apple trees. There are orange, mandarin and lemon groves with trees laden in fruit, sometimes even lying on the ground.  The river beds are even lush and green with wonderful spring-like growth and many olive groves all around the hills. Then higher up you find herbs like rosemary, thyme, and lavender scattered across the harsher country which the goats spend their days foraging on.
Mid winter in Spain

Cheryl, great hostess


Two o'clock most afternoons you can hear the clanging of the goat bells as the goat herder brings his mob out to wander over the hills.  They milk in the morning and spend the afternoons grazing around this area - its a glorious site as they come round the side of the hill behind their trusty leader.  One goat herder and his faithful off-sider dog scooting around the mob every now and then to remind them who's boss on this mountain. Some rather cheeky little kids who are testing the boundaries and a tired old girl who says 'Have had enough for the day' and not going any further without some attention.
Mojacar with Francis and Janet, no not grumpy just bright sunlight

Chris and Nick looking for shops in Alicante

Down near the beach the pace isn't much faster at this time of the year, but the coast looks amazing.  Nobody much around to spoil the view of the stunning sea colour against the white of the houses. You can wander for hours, and the temperature conducive for doing so, with this glorious beach that just keeps going as far as the eye can see.  What better way to spend a Tuesday afternoon?
Great Lunch Mojacar beach with Francis and Janet
The life down here seems far simpler than anywhere we've been and perhaps this time of the year makes it feel more so.  Lovely long lunches with friends, cheap (better description might be great value for money) wine, delicious jamon, manechago cheeses, chorizo, fresh oranges picked straight from the tree and wonderful coffee. 

Getting a Master class in Spanish wines from  George.