Northern Portugal

Judy, David, Nick and David

University Campus

Northward bound again we headed inland, giving us a far more rural feel, to Coimbra, a gorgeous relaxed university town.  The University of Coimbra is one of the oldest in Europe, certainly the oldest in Portugal and attracts many Euorpean and foreign students.  It reminded me of Corpus Christie College in Cambridge, although far from the lush wonderful gardens of Cambridge all we really saw was clay, shingle and paved surfaces.

Porto

Rabelo Boat on the Douro River

Judy at the Market in Porto

We found a delightful appartment right on the beachfront in Villa Cha, twenty minutes north of Porto. A delightful city with a rich history, busy port and still most famous for being the birthplace of Port. 

Olives grown on roof of office building

  

Do Camon Church 

It's not a huge city, so perfect for walking, especially being built on the hills, some of the view were spectacular.  We explored the back streets, as we often do, not always meaning to, but also enjoyed the variety of open air markets, glorious old buildings. and the stunning Do Camon Church with the striking blue ceramics.

Port Lodges

Port tasting

 From the south side of the Douro river you get a spectacular view of the old Port Wine Lodges which dominate the landscape. There are over 50 port producers within that area where the wines are aged and blended.   We slipped into the Calem Port building to enjoy a quick guided tour, learn a little about the history and process of Port making and best of all taste both the chilled White and the Tawny port. 

Bom Jesus - Braga

Off to do a bit more sightseeing, this time recommended by the locals.  First stop Braga, founded by the Romans more than 2,000 years ago,  the oldest Christian city in Portugal and Bom Jesus do Monte -  an amazing spot - renown as Portugal's most spectacular sanctuary.  The giant Baroque Escadaria ( granite staircase), designed in 1722 and finally finished in 1811, represents an upward spiritual journey.  

Bom Jesus do Monte

We wandered up the crisscrossing stairway to reach the hilltop pilgrimage church and enjoy a wonderful panoramic view of Braga but not without a great cup of coffee at the bottom of the stairs.  Probably made best by the delightful owner of the little cafe who couldn't do enough to help.  Although our Portugese is practically  nonexistant we have been pleasantly surprised by how gracious and welcoming most locals have been.

Guimaraes

Praca da Oliveria - Guimaraes

Guimaraes, another world heritage listed city, known predominately as the city in which "Portugal was Born".  In 1128 major political events took place that lead to the independence and "birth of a new nation". One of those delightful spots to spend a few hours in an afternoon enjoying the surroundings, cultural history and atmosphere of this delightful town. But the place really comes alive at dusk as Guimaraes of the youngest cities in Europe with over half the population under thirty.   

Duoro Valley

Our final day and we hit the road, heading up the Duoro Valley, home of some of the earliest vineyards in Portugal, another World Heritage site.  As we wind our way inland, you can see masses of vineyards dotted all around countrydside. 

From what looks like a few square metres to huge hectares, they seem to cover any area that looks workable, although goodness knows how they do manage to harvest.  The cost and time must exorbidant, but it certainly looks picturesque especially with the magnificent Douro River flowing through the middle of everything.

Duoro Valley

We were charmed by the local older women sitting on the roadside selling cherries and strawberries - couldn't go past them especially with the huge price of two euros per bag, and I mean a kilo or more!!  They were delicious, almost as good as a Marlborough cherry.

Passions of Portugal

Two  weeks of exploring Portugal with David and Judy who were making a slight detour on their way home from Spain.

Alvor

Our first few days in the Algarve, were in Alvor, a gorgeous little fishing village set on the estuary of the Rio Alvor.  But a good stroll down the boardwalk takes you to the main beach Praia de Alvor with its long stretches of golden sand dunes that look like they go on for ever.

 But even better still was the first sip of smooth rich coffee - oh la la finally!!!!

Portimao

We met some delightful, warm, welcoming people, passionate about their country and the lifestyle they enjoy - quote "we take time to talk, live and love, the important things in life".

We drove north inland to Evora an enchanting walled city.  Once a centre for learning and the arts and a popular residence of the Portugese kings

Cascais

Next stop Cascais a gorgeous coastal town just a few km's west of Lisbon.  Originally a small fishing village that became popular with the European nobility.  It is now a delightful town full of great cafes, restaurants, wonderful shopping and surrounded by some superb beaches.

We walked for miles along the boardwalk, perfect temperature and then explored some of the back streets with houses covered in bougainvillea in glorious colours.

From Cascais we could catch the train in Lisbon.  A thirty minute ride along the coast and you were there, slap bang in the midst of this beautiful vibrant city.   So much to see and there never seems enough time.

 Lisbon is Europes second oldest capital (after Athens), capital of an empire than spread over all continents.  From here many explorers set sail on some of the greatest voyagers and discoveries.  Sadly and rather poignant to the four of us, Lisbon was devastated by a massive earthquake in 1755 in which thousands of people were killed and eighty five percent of the city's structures destroyed.

Today you find a thriving, captivating city full of cultural treasures, fabulous architecture and surprisingly safe, friendly and great value.

Random guide

We had an entertaining Free Walking tour with a young local - his version of Lisbon.  A great way to see the city but can be a bit random.

Quinta da Regaleria

Only a thirty minute drive into the hills behind Lisbon is Sintra, a stunning spot.  A magical town once the summer residence of the Portugese Royal family and other wealthy aristocrats who built huge castles and mansions. Home to the National Palace, Pena Palace (one of Europes most famous palaces) and many other fairytale like mansions that are snuggled into the lush green environment.

    We spent hours wandering around the Quinta da Regaleria, a fantasy like palace surrounded with an amazing garden filled with statues of gods, turrets, mysterious wells, ponds and grottos. One man's imagination and years of hard work.

Even the Lawrences get a mention with this being one of the oldest hotels in Portugal, built in 1790. My random relatives.

National Palace

Northern Spain and France

Northern Spain was a total contrast to where we had spent the last couple of months.

As we left the coast at about Valencia the country side started to soften.  Of course rainfall makes a huge difference to the environment and it was wonderful to watch it occur so dramatically within the course of the trip.

Red trousers in Teruel

Our first stop was Teruel a town in a rather remote, mountainous part of the Southern Aragon region.  A town that suffered huge destruction during the Spanish civil war and one of the bloodiest battles. But is also home to a group of Mudejar momuments now declared a World Heritage Site. 

Elizondo

Elizondo

Next night we stopped in Elizondo, but arrived early enough to have two or three hours exploring the place, in the Baztan region of northern Spain. A gorgeous picturesque town built on the banks of the Baztan River, in the Atlantic Pyrenees. 

Set in an idyllic surrounding of lush green paddocks with content cattle grazing, even the stones used to build the walls surrounding the paddocks gave a feeling of permanence. 

The size and structure of many of the houses were amazing  - the town is noted for its large number of mansion houses.   Most of which used to belong to local people who emigrated to America and wanted to leave a legacy of the fortunes they made. 

After half an hour on the road we were in France.  So easy no need for passports or such these days, the change in language as we paid the motorway toll was the only giveaway.

Inglis's family home

Julia(cousin),Sandy, Ilda, Zara, Baguette, Margot and Nick

Fours hours north and a few country roads later we found La Crèche, about 13 kms from Noirt, and were thrilled to see the NZ flag flying.  

Old friends from Lyttelton NZ , had been traveling the world, mainly Africa, for eighteen months and have now settled back in France.  What a joy to see them and their gorgeous girls who have grown up so much.

Stage two

They have renovated a classic old French Farmhouse, in which Ilda's father grew up, and are now in the process of doing the rest of it.  What a project but what a glorious spot they are creating.

The French/South African hospitality was delightful, even being treated with an early morning cup of tea from eight year old Zara. 

Sandy and Nick

David found a rest spot

Built in 1470 and still open for coffee

Sandy got us out on the mountain bikes, nothing too strenuous, but what a fabulous way to see the countryside as we followed the river Sevre about ten miles downstream to St Maixent L'Ecole.  A delightful town with many buildings dating back to the 15th century, even the building just above the cafe we stopped at was built in 1471.  Here we encounted an enthusiastic frenchman, who with a huge smile and a flail of arms delighted in yelling "Ah zee All Blacks oui, oui" when he discovered we were from New Zealand.  Can't remember having a welcome like that before in France.

A Lavoir

Abbey in Saint Maixent L'Ecole

A 'lavoir', open air communal wash house -many of these ancient laundry's have been restored throughout the country. 

Sandy and David confessing their sins

The town is also home to a magnificent Abby where the boys were forced into confessing their sins!

Lunch 

In true French style, a delicious five course lunch under the apple tree.

Margot baking chocolate cake

Margot baking her own birthday cake.

Hard at work

Sleeves rolled up, Sandy and David sanding and painting shutters and doors.

La Rochelle

La Rochelle

Temptations in La Rochelle

Spent a few hours at the wonderful Niort market, where we bought some delicious local cheeses, bread and fruit for a picnic down on the waterfront in La Rochelle.  Then enjoyed a gorgeous afternoon wandering through the town with many other tourists.  It is regarded as one of the most picturesque cities on the Atlantic coast, full of beautifully maintained historic buildings and doesn't disappoint.