Northern Spain and France

Northern Spain was a total contrast to where we had spent the last couple of months.

As we left the coast at about Valencia the country side started to soften.  Of course rainfall makes a huge difference to the environment and it was wonderful to watch it occur so dramatically within the course of the trip.

Red trousers in Teruel

Our first stop was Teruel a town in a rather remote, mountainous part of the Southern Aragon region.  A town that suffered huge destruction during the Spanish civil war and one of the bloodiest battles. But is also home to a group of Mudejar momuments now declared a World Heritage Site. 

Elizondo

Elizondo

Next night we stopped in Elizondo, but arrived early enough to have two or three hours exploring the place, in the Baztan region of northern Spain. A gorgeous picturesque town built on the banks of the Baztan River, in the Atlantic Pyrenees. 

Set in an idyllic surrounding of lush green paddocks with content cattle grazing, even the stones used to build the walls surrounding the paddocks gave a feeling of permanence. 

The size and structure of many of the houses were amazing  - the town is noted for its large number of mansion houses.   Most of which used to belong to local people who emigrated to America and wanted to leave a legacy of the fortunes they made. 

After half an hour on the road we were in France.  So easy no need for passports or such these days, the change in language as we paid the motorway toll was the only giveaway.

Inglis's family home

Julia(cousin),Sandy, Ilda, Zara, Baguette, Margot and Nick

Fours hours north and a few country roads later we found La Crèche, about 13 kms from Noirt, and were thrilled to see the NZ flag flying.  

Old friends from Lyttelton NZ , had been traveling the world, mainly Africa, for eighteen months and have now settled back in France.  What a joy to see them and their gorgeous girls who have grown up so much.

Stage two

They have renovated a classic old French Farmhouse, in which Ilda's father grew up, and are now in the process of doing the rest of it.  What a project but what a glorious spot they are creating.

The French/South African hospitality was delightful, even being treated with an early morning cup of tea from eight year old Zara. 

Sandy and Nick

David found a rest spot

Built in 1470 and still open for coffee

Sandy got us out on the mountain bikes, nothing too strenuous, but what a fabulous way to see the countryside as we followed the river Sevre about ten miles downstream to St Maixent L'Ecole.  A delightful town with many buildings dating back to the 15th century, even the building just above the cafe we stopped at was built in 1471.  Here we encounted an enthusiastic frenchman, who with a huge smile and a flail of arms delighted in yelling "Ah zee All Blacks oui, oui" when he discovered we were from New Zealand.  Can't remember having a welcome like that before in France.

A Lavoir

Abbey in Saint Maixent L'Ecole

A 'lavoir', open air communal wash house -many of these ancient laundry's have been restored throughout the country. 

Sandy and David confessing their sins

The town is also home to a magnificent Abby where the boys were forced into confessing their sins!

Lunch 

In true French style, a delicious five course lunch under the apple tree.

Margot baking chocolate cake

Margot baking her own birthday cake.

Hard at work

Sleeves rolled up, Sandy and David sanding and painting shutters and doors.

La Rochelle

La Rochelle

Temptations in La Rochelle

Spent a few hours at the wonderful Niort market, where we bought some delicious local cheeses, bread and fruit for a picnic down on the waterfront in La Rochelle.  Then enjoyed a gorgeous afternoon wandering through the town with many other tourists.  It is regarded as one of the most picturesque cities on the Atlantic coast, full of beautifully maintained historic buildings and doesn't disappoint. 

Lubrin Adios

Lubrin

A well timed departure from the UK as they seem to be continually waterlogged over the summer and all developing webbed feet. Lubrin turned out to be a magical spot - a rural town steeped with old fashioned ethics, a real slice of Spanish culture that hasn't changed for years. Still relient on the local agriculture, and even with an economy at rock bottom they seem to carry on with life as they have for generations.  

Nina and Nick

Ready for a walk

Nick and the team

Nina's house and two goregous dogs Lola and Charlie were delightful characters.

Dave's cave not Nina's

View towards the coast

The rambla's(old dried up river beds) behind the town were dotted with old ruins.  While the terraced hills were covered in either Almonds or Olives and as the sun went down and we were returning from our walks you would hear the tinkling of the bells as the goat herder took his charges home for the night.

Fiesta imminent

Young Flamenco dancers

Lola and Lydia

Fiesta week was hot and fun with lots happening and the town buzzing with many families, which had to go away to find jobs, coming back to visit. The flamenco dancing, the children magic shows, the different bands playing at different bars, the huge Paella made to fed the whole town and many long nights socialising. Even the children are still up at one or two am but everybody delightfully relaxed and happy.

Take your pick

Novel BBQ idea

We soon discovered that the local band performing on Friday, Saturday and Sunday night in the Plaza was contracted to play till dawn!!   The entertainment was loud and clear in our bedroom till the sun came up.

Lubrin oil

Lots of new mechanised planting

View from the front door one evening (dead pig)

With all the olives what better result -delicious.  Fancy some fresh pork or goat -  Slaughtering done just outside our house on the street.

Life saver

For 1 Euro we could wallow in the local pool regularly - the perfect spot at 44oC

Beckham

Men hanging around

Local characters like Beckham spent most of his time in the middle of the street. Then there were the men who always seem to be sitting around , not looking at each and probably not listening to each but certainly talking!! Sometimes see them playing dominoes or cards and then they get a bit more animated!!  But its the women who seem to get things done!

Helen, Janet, David, Francis and Steve

Many great evenings spent enjoying the warm balmy evenings with friends.

Packed up and on the road again northward bound.

Carboneras, Garrucha, Vera, Mojacar Peublo and Aguilas

Carboneras, Garrucha, Vera, Mojacar Peublo and Aguilas

All gorgeous coastal towns, with stunning beaches, which were no more than an hours drive from us.  Quite a common theme running through them all and certainly seeing them during the peak of summer meant they were mostly heaving with tourists.  The golden sand beaches were always packed with colorful umbrellas and skimply clad bodies of varying shapes and sizes.  All as close to the water as they could get,  as there was usually a lovely sea breeze about two metres from the waters edge and everyone was doing their best to enjoy it.

Carboneras is the furthest south and lays claim to being the setting for the "Laurence of Arabia" film, among others.  As you enter the city from the northern side you are greeted by this huge "white elephant" of a hotel. The partially built Algarrobico Hotel was deemed illegal, because it was being built too close to the shoreline and has nothing done to it since 2007. The massive 20 floor structure with its 400 rooms was 90% complete when construct stopped and the wrangle as to whether to demolish or finish still continues.

Along the beachfront we found the Pensioners Gym - the aim is to encourage the oldies to get up and get off it.  So various pieces of gym equipment are placed underneath the palm trees, free for anybody to use any time of the day or night.  Not sure if it's working but seems a fabulous idea. Spent a fun afternoon strolling and telling stories with Francis and Janet, while David tried out the equipment.

Next up the coast is Mojacar Playa, a thriving tourist beach resort which is very popular with the Brits and local Spaniards for music and night life.

Then behind this is the magical Mojacar Peublo -a striking sight of small white houses wrapped around a harsh outcrop of rock.  We parked down on the beach and wandered the couple of kilometers up the hill.  Probably not the best bet in forty degrees heat but we surely sweated out any lingering alcohol or foreign bodies we'd taken in over last few days.

Scooters are the way to go as you get the easy ride up, enjoy some air and wonderful view  

It's a classic picture postcard town, an ancient hill village, which seems to just rise up out of the flat plains and is really more about atmosphere than sights.

Wandering the narrow streets and enjoying the balconies overflowing with flowers and the cascading bougainvillea was a treat.

Just around the corner are another couple of lovely spots, Garrucha  and Vera Playa, the later being responsible for one of the worlds best naturists resorts, not that managed to find it.   

Garrucha is a charming, character filled fishing town, a full marina but not too many tourists.  Renowned for its lively fish markets and fabulous seafood restaurants.  Also a super efficient post office!!

Then about thirty minutes up the coast is one of our most favorite places, Aguilas,  a delightful city, originally a Roman fishing port.  Although a classic tourist spot because of its glorious beaches it has more of a city feel to it, based on its principal business of exporting locally grown fruit and vegetables. 

The central town Plaza is lined with lined bars and restaurants, in the middle palm trees, pigeons and statues.  One of those glorious spots you could kick back enjoy either a long coffee or few glasses of the local wine, at a very reasonable price, and enjoy watching the people.

The local Churreria served up Churros and delicious Hot Chocolate, almost thick enough you could stand your spoon up in, just like I'd read about.  We had to try that - Churros is deep fried dough, not unlike a donut, that certainly improves when accompanied by the hot chocolate.  But in 40oC heat it probably wasn't at its best